Friday
Mar302012

Daily D's

Michael Corrs Light, Tom Ford Taurus, J. Thugs, Dolce & Banana, Calvin Decline, which does not belong? It seems that Dolce & Banana actually exists and is in deep doodoo as it's truthy namesake sues for infringement. It's GAB-AHNA so it really doesn't rhyme anyway, also isn't sueing a little much for a small woodmade accessories line out of South Africia? More craziness lies below... 
Andrew Rosen, "Theory" president, is pegged to create the first perfectly American high-end brand. WSJ 
Prada sees value growth after 2011. BusinessWeek
E-Commerce company Shoe Dazzle decides to dress consumers from head to toe, rather than solely "toe". Fast Company
Men's fashion line, Albam, gets their inspiration from rock climbing. Business Week
Dolce & Gabbana sues a driftwood accessories product line out of South Africa for infringement. NYMag
Why Dries Van Noten continues to be one of the best designers around today. NYMag
Russell Simmons steers clear of inuendos for his new yogawear line, Tantris. WWD
The most comfortable undies ever? Splendid collaborates with Coconut Grove to make it happen. WWD
Indonesia could ban miniskirts country-wide, siting them as "pornographic". This statement from their parliamentary speaker? "You know what men are like. Provocative clothing will make them do things". Vomit inducing.  Huff Post
Thursday
Mar292012

Daily D's

Today we decided to go a little more lifestyle, with shout outs to excercise and modern art. Most notably of all headlines, Andre Leon Talley will be receiving his own reality TV series on Bravo. Finally, a true style voice to be heard on the airwaves in this over-saturated "fashion" TV world. More after the jump....
Artist Jason Hackenworth makes a giant "T" for the New York Times Style out of balloons. "Life is temporary, we need to learn to let go". NY Times
Gucci accuses Guess of a "studied" counterfeit trademarks strongly imitating their own. Bloomberg
H & M reports a lag in pretax earnings due to discounts and higher costs. Rueters
E-commerce fashion site, Net-A-Porter struggles to justify runway looks for the price. WSJ
For Altuzurra, fashion has been a necessary since childhood. Washington Post
Capoeira, cycling,  pilates takes to Saharian temperatures in gyms and studios. NYTimes
For Fall 2012, short suits may be the next cutting edge trend.  WWD
Andre Leon Talley will be getting his own reality TV series on Bravo. Fashionista 
Despite some valuation falls mentioned above, H & M will be opening a slew of chain stores in 2013. Fashionista
Ivanka Trump hosts her first fashion show at Lord & Taylor, watch out Ann Taylor LOFT. NY Mag
Wednesday
Mar282012

Daily D's

Keeping up with Karlisms. There's no news about the man other than a quote he released yesterday on his blog: "Je suis pour l'avis général d'une seule personne." Rough translation: "I am generally for the general opinion of one person". And on that note, there's a lot of interesting headlines from this morning and late yesterday....
Stefano Pilati talks about his rise into Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford as his mentor. NYTimes
Coach collaborates with artist James Nares for a design that brings in some new color. NYTimes
Manolo Blahnik is "impatient with a modern world that's full of fakes and young people who can't recognise them".  Telegraph
Loving this video promo from Sofia Coppola for the new H & M luxury brand.  Telegraph
Which does not belong? "Kate Middleton Nails", "Mexican Sugar Skull Nails", "Taxi Driver Seat Nails".. Trick question, according to Sally Singer these manicures are her go -tos. Nowness
Male homoerotic fashion shoot for Abercrombie and Fitch by Bruce Weber. Modernization. Fashionista
Somehow, Dov Charney the CEO of American Apparel, redeems himself to investors as he nears bankruptcy, signing a 3- year contract. God speed, Dov.  Fashionista
A photograph of Kate Moss and Grace Coddington lacing Gabriel Moginot into his own corset creation makes me very happy. Hint 
Wednesday
Mar282012

Craft & Innovation

There have been some tremendous opportunities on my tour of Japan, including face time with artist Takashi Murakami, Isamu Noguchi's protege Masatoshi Izumi, architect Tadao Ando and several "national living treasures" that include an indigo dyer, kimono artist and ceramicist. While this may not seem like NB material (I wasn't too sure about some of these visits, but let me tell you, traveling with important international curators will expand your horizons), they all had a common thread across the board.

Overall, the Japanese want to preserve their crafts by taking the time to teach apprentices, whether an art student in Murakami's "factory" or a young kimono artist, as they were taught by their predecesors. Moreso, regardless of practice, all of these artists believe that innovation is key to preserving their craft. This is absolutely something that strikes home, down to the core of what New Brahmin stands for.

Here are two prime examples of how fashion as a craft is being innovated in Japan:

First up, textile house Nuno. They work with a large handful of the traditional weavers across Japan, mixing traditional aesthetics with major technological advances in not only weaving but fabric. They've worked with some of the best Japanese designers (Miyake, Yamamoto, etc) and have a growing interest in reuse and recycling of their fabrics. After this experience, I've rediscovered a love for textiles that was crushed somewhere in my sophmore year of college thanks to an asshole textile science professor.

Director Reiko; bolts on bolts on bolts of Nuno fabrics

Double-faced silk with feathers hand inserted; double-faced silk with washi paper weft with stainless steel threading

Heat-exposed metallic thread fabrics; stainless steel fabric (which I purchased immediately)

Next, was easily one of the major highlights of this trip for me. After visiting the 2121 Gallery (created/curated by Issey Miyake and designed by Ando), we were escorted over the the Miyake Design Studios with the company's American rep, Jun. While I was expecting something like Pleats Please or the main line [ed. note: Miyake has retired from design but focuses on creating opportunities for young, emerging designers with several of his namesake lines], the studio offered up their 132 5 Issey Miyake line (1 piece of fabric turns 3 dimensional, folds 2 dimensional and takes you to a 5th, esoteric dimension), which has been out for only 4 seasons. The designer, whose name escapes me, came into the retail space to show up the line works.

Basically, the designer and his team worked with a mathematician from University of Tokyo who focuses in ergonomic origami. The mathematician created 10 different origami forms from which the team manipulated into a variety of clothing and bag designs with completely breathtaking and mind-boggling results. I kinda went nuts shopping and scored some incredible pieces, but what I really need is one of the adorable salesgirls to come home with me to refold everything after I wear them.

2 dimensions; Jun and the lead designer showing the origami inspiration behind the holographic piece

Changing dimensions; the final product (the skirt)

The foil process; left over foil, as geometrically artistic as the pieces themselves

Tuesday
Mar272012

Daily D's

It seems that in order to be a well-established shopping brand nowadays, partnering with a designer brand or "going luxury" is a must. For the exception of American Apparel, who really seems to care less about it's decency lately (see: models crawling on their solar panels). But there's more news to share - regarding chokers, sandals, TOMS, Missoni, and Instagram-ing.
Kenneth Cole intensifies their look to appease the modern individual. WWD
American Apparel proves that their factory solar panels are efficient and "sexy". Huffington Post
Our favorite 90s accessory, the choker, makes a stylish comeback. Stylelist
J.Crew collaborates with Altuzurra, the collections launches in just a few weeks. Fashionista
Vogue hires a princess by the name of "TNT" to be a style editor- at- large. Fashionista
Blake Mycoskie reveals how his concept of charity meets style works. The Independent
In the Phillipines, a condo high-rise is taken over by Missoni design. Vertigo much? Fashion Tribes
The New York Times' style crew gives its take on the newest summer sandal. NYTimes
Instagram obsessed? Here are the best accounts to follow for photo inspiration. Refinery 29